10/12/2015

The kimono











During the past couple of season there's no piece of clothing that gained more popularity than kimono. Everyone, from boho chic enthusiasts to lovers of minimalism have sported at least one kimonos recently. And the funniest thing is that the item we call ''kimono'' actually isn't a kimono at all. Real Japanese kimono consist of a long dress like form made of heavy silk and is worn with an obi (belt) wrapped around the waist. Female kimonos almost always have long, rectangular sleeves whit a slit so they can fall over the thick obi elegantly. 

Kimono is usually very long, it covers the legs and sometimes reaches the floor (depending on the type). An interesting item that is closer to the western idea of kimono is a haori and I am wearing one here. Haori is worn over a kimono and it's basically a type of jacket. It can be tied in front with two ties and is always worn without an obi. Haori jackets go well with the most of the western clothes, because they are shorter than kimonos and do not require an obi. 

In the decades behind us a strange trend emerged. People in Japan started selling the old kimonos, and the rest of the clothes, they inherited from their parents or relatives and turned to western clothing. Meanwhile, in the West all sorts of kimono related clothing became incredibly popular. In Japan kimonos used to be very expensive and only very rich people were able to afford the ones made of beautiful fabrics, that were hand painted and embroider. Geisha houses had separate rooms in which they kept all of their kimonos and every geisha had someone who helped her get dressed in the morning. 

Today you can find great deals for vintage kimonos and haoris online or in thrift stores. I found this vintage haori from the 80s at www.wafuku.co.uk (this website sells traditional Japanese clothing and other items) and it's in great condition. The silk is incredible and it's sewn perfectly. When it arrived my mum and I spent the whole day admiring the craftsmanship of a person who made this haori.



Tokom nekoliko prethodnih sezona ne postoji komad odeće koji je stekao veću popularnost od kimona. Svi, od boho šik entuzijasta do obožavalaca minimalizma, nosili su bar jednom kimono u skorije vreme. A najsmešnije od svega je to što odevni predmet koji mi zovemo ''kimono'' to zapravo nije. Pravi japanski kimono se sastoji od tkanine u formi koja podseća na dugu haljinu i napravljena je od teške svile i nosi se sa obijem (pojasom) obmotanim oko struka. Ženski kimono skoro uvek ima dugačke, pravougaone rukave sa obaveznim prorezom koji služi da bi rukavi mogli elegantno da padaju preko debelog obija.

Kimono je obično jako dugačak, pada preko nogu i ponekad dodiruje pod (u zavisnosti od toga kog je tipa). Zanimljiv odevni predmet koji je bliži zapadnoj ideji kimona jeste haori, koji ja ovde nosim. Haori se nosi preko kimona i to je u stvari vrsta jakne, iliti jakna u tradicionalnom japanskom odevanju. Može da se veže sa dve tračice koje se nalaze napred i uvek se nosi bez obija. Haori odlično ide uz većinu zapadnjačke odeće, jer je kraći od kimona i ne zahteva obi.

U decenijama koje su iza nas pojavila se čudna tendencija. Ljudi u Japanu su počeli da prodaju odeću nasleđenu od roditelja ili rođaka i okrenuli su se zapadnom načinu odevanja. Za to vreme na zapadu sve vrste odeće izvedene iz kimona postale su vrlo popularne. U Japanu kimono je nekada bio jako skup i samo najbogatiji su mogli da priušte one napravljene od lepih materijala koji su ručno bojeni i ukrašavani vezom. Kuće gejši imale su posebne sobe u kojima su se čuvala kimona i svaka gejša je imala nekoga ko joj je ujutru pomagao da se obuče.

Danas možete povoljno da nađete vintage kimona i haorije na internetu ili u radnjama koje prodaju vintage komade. Ja sam pronašla ovaj haori iz osamdesetih na sajtu www.wafuku.co.uk (ovaj sajt prodaje autentičnu tradicionalnu japansku odeću i predmete) i on je u sjajnom stanju. Svila je neverovatna i savršeno je sašiven. Kada je stigao moja mama i ja smo se ceo dan divile veštini onoga ko je napravio ovaj haori.


Haori from www.wafuku.co.uk
H&M top
H&M pants
Diane von Fursterberg bag
Asos Spring break heels
Vintage silver rings (right hand) and Ti Sento ring (left hand)
No brand bracelet
MAC Diva lipstick


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2 comments

  1. Baš interesantno. I outfit i pričica o Japanu. Skoro sam bila u neuspešnoj potrazi za pravim dugačkim kimonom, prvenstveno za potrebe fotkanja, a i ja sam veliki ljubitelj kimona od malih dana :D pa bih ga svejedno uzela. Ovaj sajt mi je od neprocenjive pomoci! Hvala.

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    Replies
    1. Drago mi je da ti je pomogao, i ja sam dugo tražila lep vintage kimono ali sam se na kraju ipak odlučila za haori. :)

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